I cruised for a week, stopping in Juneau, Icy Strait Point, Sitka and Ketchikan. We sailed all day through Glacier Bay National Park, which is full of glaciers such as Marjorie Glacier, the largest tidewater glacier in the world with a 21-mile span back from its face! And, it moves 7 feet every day. WILD. And we saw lots of humpback whales, sea otters, bald eagles and even a bear!

Here are some of my best pictures from my glorious week in Alaska, and my best humpback whale video:

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Skip the blockbusters this year and head for these just-as-beautiful expanses.

Yellowstone and Yosemite deserve spots on your Wanderlist – and for good reason! – but there are so many more wide-open spaces, beautiful trails, and gorgeous vistas ripe for discovery within the U.S. National Park system (more than 52 million acres across 63 parks, to be exact).

If you’re ready to take in the great outdoors this summer, but wary of the crowds that may be waiting there, consider these ten underrated national parks instead.

Here’s what not to miss at each, plus a few pro tips for how to experience them.   

Badlands National Park | South Dakota

Best For: Fossil hunting with the family.
Highlights: Spot bighorn sheep, bison, and prairie dogs in the grasslands and canyons of Badlands National Park, which got its name from the Indigenous Lakota, who were inspired by the area’s rugged terrain. Families can hunt for fossils along the arid Castle Trail and learn about the area’s Native American history at the White River Visitor Center. Bonus: Badlands trips are easily combined with visits to nearby Mount Rushmore, a 90-minute drive away.
Get There:  We can create a customized trip to the park for you!

Big Bend National Park | Texas

Best For: Scenic drives through the desert.
Highlights: Named for its location along the curve of the Rio Grande in southwest Texas, Big Bend is one of the country’s largest national parks. This 1,252-square-mile expanse, which encompasses the Chisos Mountains in their entirety and parts of the Chihuahuan Desert, is best explored by car – more than 100 miles of paved roads cut through its otherworldly landscape. Plan to arrive at Santa Elena Canyon just before sunset for some of the park’s most coveted photo ops. 
Get There:  We can create a customized tour through Big Bend, led by a private guide.

Biscayne National Park | Florida

Best For: Spending time on (and in) the water.
Highlights: An hour’s drive south of Miami, the offshore Biscayne National Park is 95 percent water – making canoeing and kayaking through mangrove forests and snorkeling and diving near coral reefs its prime activities for visitors. We can arrange a boat charter to Elliott Key, the park’s largest island, or head out on a paddling or sailing excursion with the Biscayne National Park Institute.
Get There: Most travelers visit Biscayne on a day trip from Miami. On Brickell Key, the 326-room Mandarin Oriental, Miami is home to some of the city’s biggest suites, an infinity-edge pool, and a restaurant featuring Peruvian bites from chef Gastón Acurio. Our clients receive breakfast daily, a $100 dining credit, and more.    

Canyonlands National Park | Utah

Best For: White-water rafting.
Highlights: Utah’s largest national park, the 527-square-mile Canyonlands comprises four districts: Needles (known for its colorful rock spires), Island in the Sky (and its flat-topped mesas), the Maze (home to remote canyons), and Rivers (aka the Green and Colorado, which carved out this desert landscape thousands of years ago). Don’t leave without a paddle through Cataract Canyon’s rapids on the Colorado River.
Get There: Backroads’ five-day walking and hiking tour hits both Arches and Canyonlands national parks, before finishing with a visit to the Colorado National Monument. Departures: Any day through November 7, 2021.

Channel Islands National Park | California

Best For: Taking a break from the city.
Highlights: Eleven miles off the coast of Santa Barbara – and accessible only by ferry, plane, or private boat – Channel Islands National Park consists of five small islands dotted with clifftop lighthouses and offshore sea caves and kelp forests. On Santa Cruz Island, travelers can snorkel off the coast of Scorpion Beach or hike through the Scorpion Valley while keeping an eye out for pint-size island foxes that emerge during the summer months as the young pups mature.   
Get There: Guests of The Ritz-Carlton Bacara, Santa Barbara can visit the Channel Islands on a yacht excursion arranged by the resort. After a full day of exploring, retreat to the 358-room resort’s blufftop winetasting room, which features a rotating menu of pours from local vineyards. Our clients receive breakfast daily, a $100 resort credit, and more.

Congaree National Park | South Carolina

Best For: Backcountry canoeing.
Highlights: Two hours northwest of Charleston, Congaree and its 27,000 acres of parkland (with 11,000 acres of old-growth floodplain forest) are recognized as an International Biosphere Reserve. To spy wildlife (including red-tailed hawks, barred owls, and bobcats), go canoeing down Cedar Creek in the park’s backcountry. Your travel advisor can work with local outfitters to arrange rentals and private tours.
Get There: Day-trip to Congaree from Charleston, where home base is the 434-room Charleston Place, a Belmond Hotel. Pro tip: A float in the hotel’s saltwater pool makes for a refreshing end to a South Carolina summer day. Our clients receive breakfast daily, a $100 dining credit, and more.

Crater Lake National Park | Oregon

Best For: Cycling.
Highlights: Formed 7,700 years ago after the eruption and collapse of Mount Mazama, Crater Lake is the country’s deepest – and arguably bluest – lake. Naturally, the body of water is the park’s main draw, but beyond it, black bears, elk, and spotted owls make their homes in the immense old-growth forest. Lake views abound, but the only way to head down to the water for a swim is via Cleetwood Cove Trail. Fair warning: At 1.1 miles, going down is relatively easy, but with 700 feet of elevation gain, expect to huff and puff on the way back up.
Get There: DuVine Cycling + Adventure Co.’s six-day bike tour through Oregon includes a spin on Crater Lake National Park’s 33-mile Rim Drive. Other highlights: pedaling along the West Cascades Scenic Byway and an overnight in the Western-themed town of Sisters. Departures: Any day through August 20, 2022.

Haleakala National Park | Hawaii

Best For: Catching epic sunrises.
Highlights: Mark Twain called watching the sunrise from the 10,023-foot summit of Maui’s Haleakala “the most sublime spectacle I have ever witnessed.” While the dormant volcano may be the centerpiece of the eponymous park (and a pre-dawn trek is a must), the surrounding coastal forests are also worth a visit. Bird-watchers will especially enjoy spotting endangered nene (Hawaiian geese), honeycreepers such as the bright-red ‘I‘iwi, and Hawaiian short-eared owls.
Get There: Check into the 383-room Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea and get rewarded for giving back: Guests who complete a three-hour beach cleanup with the Pacific Whale Foundation receive a $250 resort credit for their current stay. Our clients receive breakfast daily, a $100 dining credit, and more.

Kenai Fjords National Park | Alaska

Best For: Spotting bears and whales.
Highlights: The showstopper of this isolated park at the edge of southern Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula is the Harding Icefield, a 700-square-mile ice cap that spawns more than 30 glaciers. From the Exit Glacier Nature Center, travelers can hike up to the icefield – it’s a strenuous climb, with a 3,000-foot elevation gain over four miles. The reward? Incredible views and a solid chance of seeing black bears. And in the icy waters surrounding the park, travelers can spy whales, porpoise, dolphins, and seals.             
Get There: Kayak, hike, and bike on Austin Adventures’ six-day tour of the Kenai Peninsula, which includes a full day at the Harding Icefield. Departures: Multiple dates, June 6 through August 15, 2021.

Saguaro National Park | Arizona

Best For: Wildflower lovers and wellness seekers.
Highlights: Travelers will find plenty of its namesake cactus – along with stunning desert landscapes and surrounding mountain vistas – in Arizona’s Saguaro National Park, which is split into two sections, on either side of Tucson. The park is known for its network of hiking paths: Look out for petroglyphs along the Signal Hill Trail or, for a pretty payoff, hike the five-mile Hugh Norris Trail to the top of Wasson Peak.
Get There: Guests of the all-inclusive, 191-room Canyon Ranch, Tucson – located 16 miles from the entrance of Saguaro National Park East – can embark on guided bike tours of the park, then return for treatments at the wellness resort’s 80,000-square-foot spa. Our clients receive all meals, a $100 resort credit, and more.

Piqued your interest? Just reach out to us to plan your summer adventure!

mailto: denise@luxurytraveladventures.com

*Story by Tanvi Cheeda and originally published on Virtuoso.com

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Where to stay in Laos

There are several luxury hotels in Luang Prabang–we stayed at the Belmond la Residence Phou Vao, which had a pool with a spectacular view of the Phou Hills. Next time, the Rosewood! But it wasn’t the 5-star luxury that made Laos memorable.

It’s the combination of culture, religion and artistic traditions coupled with the French colonial feel of its capital city Luang Prabang that so surprised me.

Things to See and Do in Laos

It started with participating in a morning ‘Baci’ ceremony (“calling of the soul”), a deeply meaningful and important part of Laos culture. We went to a villagers home, and the local shaman blessed us as we sat among a large group of local village women. The shaman tied good fortune strings around one wrist, and a village elder female tied strings around my other wrist. These needed to stay on for at least 3 days without being pried off….if they fell off naturally, that’s ok. Good thing, becuase I started shedding strings on just about the third day!

I also visited the Laos Ethonology Museum, a small museum dedicated to telling the complicated stories of the 4 native groups of Laotians. It also showcases and sells the handcrafts from each group, at fair trade prices. The quality of weaving throughout Laos is remarkable.

After the hustle and bustle of Vietnam, the languid pace in Luang Prabang was a welcome change. It’s very chill, very zen. And –very clean! The streets are charming, and it’s easy to duck in anywhere for an iced coffee or a nice cold beer.

Spend your morning with Buddhist Monks

Giving alms to the local Buddhist monks was such a moving experience that I will never forget. The monks are not allowed to cook and so every morning at daybreak they get rice from the locals, and one hot meal a day at noon, also from the locals. A&K was ready with rice for us to be able to participate in a village tradition, but it’s definitely not a tourist thing….there were plenty of local people on both sides of our little group that put stools out in front of their homes to give the monks their rice for the day. It starts at 6am when you hear a bell, alerting everyone that monks are on the way. Then you see the orange column moving closer to you, silent and single file. Not a word is spoken. The monks come in all shapes and sizes and ages. And not a word, just silence as they move through the streets. The faith that is embedded in the culture of this entire country is palpable.

Visiting the local “fresh” market in the mornings is another way to experience authentic life here.

The most important temple complex in Luang Prabang is “The Tree of Life” temple, or Wat Xieng Thon It’s filled with murals in gold and mosaic tile.

Arts & Crafts in Laos: OCK POP TOK

The absolute highlight of my too-brief time in Laos was a visit to OCK POP TOK, a living crafts center situated on the banks of the Mekong. OCK POP TOK means “East meets West” because it was started by a British woman Joanna Smith and a Laotian woman Veo Douangdala. Their vision was to empower local women to use their traditional handicraft skills to create a sustainable future for themselves. Today the center has over 78 employees who work an 8 hour day 5 days a week and receive health benefits. Their mission is for people to discover Laos through textiles, and they are producing a wide range of gorgeous silk and cotton textiles in a variety of designs.

They also have a terrific café called Silk Road that overlooks the Mekong, and even several villa rooms if you wish to stay overnight. It’s also possible to do group and even private classes on premises as well.

You can walk freely around the looms and watch the artists at work. A free tour will explain the entire weaving process to you, from cultivating silk worms (they do so on premises) to harvesting and dying the silk with traditional herbal and vegetable dyes (also on premises). It can take 1- 3 weeks to weave one intricate scarf.

Laos was truly a surprise on my 3.5 week adventure through Southeast Asia. If you are into textile crafts, Laos is your Nirvana. I think it’s also a wonderful place for wellness retreats including yoga and meditation. Laos has a lot to offer, it should be on every seasoned traveler’s radar!

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Everyone’s got their own travel bucket list, right?  But some of my clients and I shared the same wish, to see the African mountain gorillas in their natural habitat.  So I took a small group of clients to Uganda to realize what was truly a dream trip for all of us, myself included.

We spent 3 nights at Bwindi Lodge to trek the famous and rare mountain gorillas.  The lodge is a 5-minute walk to the Buhoma gate of Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park.

The lodge has 8 “bandas” or cottages named after various mountain gorillas.  It has a gorgeous green view of the park, and is one of the Top 3 nicest places to stay in the area.   A stay here includes all meals and drinks (even alcohol) and laundry. The main lodge has a welcoming sitting area with fireplace and dining room, and internet is available in the main lodge.

The bandas have outdoor porches and have every creature comfort you need, including King beds, sitting area, desk are with USB plugs and electrical outlets.  There is a double-sink vanity in the large and airy bathroom, with a dressing area, safe, stone shower and water closet.  We all LOVED the fab-smelling Temple Spa toiletries, including muscle cream and foot balm.

Your wake-up call is a delivery of cappuccino or tea with delicious pound cake, and hot water bottles to tuck you in at night.

The food at Bwindi Lodge was easily the best food we had at any lodge or camp in Uganda.  My avocado and tomato bruschetta was one of the best things I ate the entire trip, as well as buttered tilapia that was a revelation and nothing like the nondescript bland tilapia we have here at home.  Lunches of chicken wraps with bacon and avocado and thick cut potatoes or chicken and pesto were very tasty.   On our last evening, we had 4-cheese samosas as a starter, and for the main we all choose the local specialty  of “matoki” or cooked, mashed green banana with peanut sauce, and white rice and a tomato-based chicken stew that was excellent.  Sharing dinner in the company of our wonderful guide Eric and Omax, one of Bwindi’s park rangers and member of the Uganda Wildlife Authority, made it our favorite dinner of the trip!

So what is it like to gorilla trek?

Whoever has permits to track that day is welcomed to the Ranger Station by a local women’s group who sing and dance before a general briefing by the Head Ranger, who goes over the rules.  No flash photography, keep distance from the gorillas and speak softly.  People trek in a group of up to 8 people max, so you will be grouped with other people if you are not your own group of 8.  After the general briefing, you are assigned to your own park ranger and group of 8, and are told which gorilla family you will be tracking that day.  People who have 2 treks in 2 consecutive days will have priority for the easiest trek if it is their second trekking day–fair enough.

You have to be prepared to trek single-file for  5 minutes or 4-5 hours to see one of the four habituated families in this section of the park.  It isn’t called the IMPENETRABLE forest for nothing!  There are no paths and your park team will include rangers with machetes who walk out in front and literally machete the dense brush so you can walk through.  I highly recommend hiring a porter, who will carry your daypack (must bring 2 liters of water per person with you plus packed lunch, camera equipment, etc) and help you over and around the hilly brush and vegetation.  I didn’t like having a walking stick and felt it more of a hindrance than a help, but that’s a personal thing.  Tight-fitting neoprene gloves came in very handy when grabbing on to various branches for balance.

 

An advance team goes out in the very early  morning to see where the gorilla families are located,  and then radios the specific location to your ranger, who will lead your group there.  There is an armed guard at the front of your group, and  also one at the back.  With 3 rangers, porters, guards and the guest group, it’s quite a scene.

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Once you arrive at the gorilla family location, you are allowed exactly 60 minutes to observe them.   Only one group of 8 people are allowed to see a family in one day, to limit gorilla exposure to human disease.

On our first day/first trek, we had to drive about 35 minutes away from the ranger station to where the H family of gorillas was located, and then we set about on foot.  The anticipation was incredible!

It took almost an hour of hiking to get to the Habinyanja family.  When you first spot those black figures in the green bushes, your heart almost jumps out of your chest.  And when one of them fully emerges from the bushes and walks right by you, it truly is quite a thrill.  You don’t know whether to snap away or just stand there and take it all in.

Unlike very loud-calling chimpanzees, these mountain gorillas are very mild-mannered and quiet….only once the silverback grunted his displeasure (at an armed guard standing too close to the gorillas, which included a baby) or made low noises that our ranger told us was just the silverback communicating with his members to see if all was ok.  The noise you hear all around you is branches bending and breaking as these magnificent herbivores go about finding their ideal breakfast.

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The members were a bit scattered in different areas, but we settled into a small area to watch a group of about 8 gorillas…..the silverback was lying on the ground  napping, having his fill of breakfast already.   He was being groomed by a very young gorilla, an orphan whose mother was killed and who now stays right next to the silverback all the time.   But the real attention-getter was a small two-year old, who was full of energy and very playful while all the adults around him, including mom, were in food comas and napping, or still munching away.  This little guy was so curious, he came right up to one of my client’s (who was at his level, sitting on the ground  taking pictures) and started POKING her camera lens with his finger.  Our ranger told my client to stand up, which made this toddler back off (remember, they do not want the gorillas that close to humans for a variety of reasons).  This little gorilla then ran around, climbed a branch and beat his chest, tried to wake his mother up, sat next to his mother for a bit and cradled her head with his arm, and then jumped over to another adult who groomed him.   You couldn’t take your eyes off of him.

His behavior was just like a human toddler!  I believe this is why people say gorilla trekking is such an amazing experience, becuase we see ourselves in these primates.

Our second day of trekking was laughable easy—we were going to see the Rushigura or R Family.  We started our hike right from the ranger station, and literally within 8 minutes we came upon at least 12 members of the R  family eating by the river.    But you just never know how long–or short–it will take to reach your family, I  cannot underestimate that you need to be prepared for anything.  We got lucky.   I joked that it didn’t feel right that we hadn’t had to trek through mud and  stinging nettles to be rewarded with the family find.

Once again, we were astounded by the quite serenity of these animals, very busy going about their business foraging and eating breakfast.  A mother emerged from the bushes with a baby on her back, and proceeded to walk right by me…she was so close I had to zoom my camera OUT, while backing up to give her room to pass, all while trying not to fall into the river  behind me.

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Some of this gorilla family ate their fill of forest fruit and then were thirsty so had to go take a drink at the stream (swooping their arm into the water and drinking from their hand), and then they  navigated the river rocks (even with a baby on back)  and passed to the other side.  Others stayed on our side of the stream, but at some point they decided to move on.  We watched as several gorillas came out of the bushes and walked right by us….and also under the watchful eye of their silverback.  The silverback acted like a crossing guard–he stood still in the path as all his family members safely passed by, and only then did he take up the rear and follow them into the bushes, to continue on with their daily life on the move.

 

I highly recommend a second day of trekking (yes, it’s another $600 for another permit but well worth it)  for a couple of reasons….you get to see a different gorilla family, but also because  you will give yourself more time to put the phone and camera down, and just observe.    If you only have that one 60-minute trek, you are juggling all your electronics trying to get the perfect shot, the perfect selfie, the perfect video.  60 minutes goes by pretty fast.  If you have another day,  you become more present, more  in the moment.  You get your shots, and then just relax and watch as nature reveals itself to you.

And Nature is pretty splendid!  

For people who want a more active and visceral wildlife encounter that goes beyond sitting in a safari vehicle, you cannot top this experience.    Yes,  the permits are costly but they are helping to provide the means necessary to ensure that these magnificent creatures survive in their natural habitat to be seen by future generations. 

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